Accords

What does that mean, really. Accord: It is taken from the musical “Chord” which is usually a combination of three notes when played together create a synergistic harmony. It is possible to have as many as five notes in a chord, but virtually impossible to have more. Imagine playing a piano or guitar. Each finger is holding a note. With five fingers or digits on the human hand. Well you get the picture, right.
In perfumery the chord or as it is better known accord can be a simple synergy meant to express the basics of a particular scent or it can be an enormously elaborate monstrosity.
Surprisingly with most scents, only a few key materials are needed to create a profile. Natural rose oil is said be very complex, containing hundreds of aroma chemicals, molecules, etc. yet a basic rose scent can be achieved by using as little as two raw materials. It will not be complex, but at first whiff it will smell rosy.
In my work I am trying to simplify my accord library, and although I do appreciate a few well constructed, complex accords, I also have a need for basic scent profiles. This is very important when crafting personal scents for individuals.

Givaudan came out with a CD and sample kit a few years back of what they call their Key Accords. The disc and little box of diluted accords sat on my desk for over a year before I finally decided to give it a look. The formula for each accord is on the disc. Most of them are quite basic. and a couple of them are absolutely stunning.
If you are a perfumer and reading this you may be able to get a sample set from your rep. and if not: the Perfumers Apprentice sells some of the accords premixed on their website. They also have the formulas listed, so you can make them yourself.
You will notice that they are not all that involved. and in the case of the floral accords I prefer using a percentage of natural absolute in the formula. I also do not use galaxolide musk, so I replace it with a higher quality musk or leave the musk element out of the accord and figure it into the overall formula for a perfume. Taking into account the amount of musk used in these accords, and the musk added to a formula as a singular note or accord, I feel that there is way too much musk being used in commercial perfumes. particularly the inexpensive musk’s. Bottom line is one thing, but come on folks. what about the artistry.
I also do not use DPG as a filler to round out a 1000 gram formula. I don’t care if the formula equals 1000 grams and most of mine do not. To me that is just one more constraint on my creativity. It screams compromise, but not in a good way.
In my work I have become quite comfortable creating my own accords and bases, and use them almost exclusively over existing formulary. I do learn from the existing formulary, as anyone will, but at some point we must break out and do our own thing.
In the lab we can experiment and take chances, in hopes of creating something brilliant. Most of my time in the lab is spent working on new things. building new accords and learning how to trim down an accord to its bare essence. An accord need not be a catch all for a formula. A base should not be used in that way either. Instead where the accord works best is in synergy with other individual notes. Keeping the accord simple, allows one to add nuances without clouding the scent.
So in essence, less really is more. Something that I feel we learn gradually over time.

Peace & Blessings, ZZ….

Change Does A Body Good

Sometimes things get old and that’s ok. Other times a change is in order. I woke up this morning and decided that I would start a new blog. I am trying it out to see if I like it. The newest version of word press seems much improved (first look) over the versions from a few years ago. So I am giving it another try. If I like it I will upgrade. I will also add back all of the perfume blog links and other things as I go along.

I am posting a link to the old blog, and will leave it up for awhile so that folks can find us.

BEING PREPARED – Yesterday I was all set to work in the lab, but realized immediately that I was out of a key element for my pear accord. So will have to wait for the shipment (also got a few other things) of materials before continuing forward. This gave me an idea for a new post about accords, and I am going to work on it today when I get back from my errands.

Hope everyone likes the new look. It’s not so bold, but lighter, and I am feeling a lot lighter these days.

Peace & Blessings, ZZ…….